Aggelakis Winery 10 km south of Heraklion in Crete
The Minoan civilization, Europe’s first, fascinates me since I visited Crete in 1979. It was the first time I could afford a plane ticket. My savings from the army allowed me to pay the expensive Swissair fare – a whopping USD 800. But I loved flying – had been to Greece before by train. This time i wanted to see it from the air. Luckily, I got a window seat. I was glued to the window from Zurich to Athens. Flying over Venice, then along the Dalmatian coast, the Albanian mountains and finally the Olympus on my vacation was priceless!
Cretean Merchants exported large Quantities of Wine to Egypt in the 3rd Millenia BC
Always wondered what made the Minoans the first seaborne traders. Our paleolithic ancestors were able to cross the open sea and travelled far. The Aborigines reached Australia by 60’000 BC, Cyprus was settled around 9’000 BC, Crete a bit later in 7’000 BC. But they did not trade. The Minoans though developed ships with sails and oars and sailed to Sardinia in the West and the Levant in the East. Minoan pottery can be found all around the Mediterranean. And so its wine. Under 6 meters of Vesuvian ash, archeologists found an wine list in a Pompeian pub reading - “CRET EXC” – exceptional wine from Crete. It had a great reputation in the Roman Empire. I guess the Minoans became traders because they had something their neighbours wanted too - and because they needed bronze. Never had any wine from Crete. Wonder whether it is still as special as 2'000 years ago.
The impressive Minoan Trade Network - Wine and Oil were sold to buy Copper and Tin
The geography of Crete is unique. Greek's largest island separates the Aegean from the rest of the Mediterranean. It is 250 km long and – on average – 35 km wide. Its mountains reach 2’500 m in height and are often coverred in snow . There is ample rain during fall and winter. Crete is far more humid than other Greek islands. Its northern coast is made of well watered rolling hills – ideal for agriculture. Albeit further south, Crete is 2 degrees Celsius cooler than the rest of the Greek islands. Up the mountain slopes it gets even cooler. The island’s soil is limestone and clay (former Tethys sea floor). Grapes and olives love alkaline earth, a lot of sun shine and good humidity. Grapes also love cooler temperatures. They came from the Caucasus which has similar climatic conditions. The wines must have felt “at home” when brought to Crete by the first settlers from Anatolia.
The Mountains to the West of Mount Ida, a good 30 km south-west of Heraklion
Crete is one of the European places with an unbroken wine making traditions. The Romans and later the Byzantines loved Cretan wines. When the Ottoman occupied the island from 1669 – 1898 they first harrassed the Cretans but then left them alone. These mountain people were tough cookies with a reputation for rebellion and a thirst for independence. Wine making thus continued even though the island now had Muslim rulers who usually forbade alcohol. Many of Crete’s indigenous grape varieties thus survived. To be honest, I never heard any of these names before writing this piece.
3/4 of Crete's Wine Production is concentrated in the Hills south of Heraklion
On 8’000 hectares - the rumour is that there are another 8'000 "illegal" hectares - the island produces 15% of Greek wine production – mostly consumed domestically. Internationally, Cretan wines are new-comers and almost an insider story. The red wines have won some acclamation in the US. The whites are said to follow soon. 2/3 of Crete's production is red wine, the rest is white and rosé.
Vidiano is probably the least-known wine. Somewhere I read that Vidiano is Greece’s “top obscure” wine. The grape is indigenous and had almost disappeared until rediscovered in old vineyards. It grows best in higher, cooler altitudes and ripens late. It produces nice rich flavors, has a textural structure and displays on the nose aromas such as apricots, peaches, mandarins and tropical flowers. Alcohol content and acidity are well balanced. On the palate, it has a creamy texture. Some connoisseurs compare Vidiano to Viognier. Several even suggest that Viviano is Crete's wine of the future which should have its own appellation. But for that, far more Vidiano needs to be planted. Apparently, it is quite difficult to find a bottle unless you go directly to the vineyards.
Vineyards and Olive Orchards in the Hills south of Heraklion
Vilana is more widespread and called a “thirst-quenching white wine for a warm summer day”. A small quantity is also put in oak to give it texture. Vilana has a light yellow color. On the nose it shows the aromas of lemon, orange pear, jasmine and herbs. A typically fresh white wine. On the palate it is light, with soft acidity and medium alcohol levels. With its freshness it can easily compete with the famous Assyrtiko from Santorini (a wine we know from our trip in 2022). Vilana grows mostly around Heraklion and in the Lasithi region. It can easily be blended with Malvasia, Muscat or other internationally well known varieties.
No Advertisement - Have not had any of these Vilanas - But they will get on our shopping list
Moving to red grapes, I first want to talk about Romeiko, a wine known historically as Tsardana. This grape is found mostly in the Chania region where it makes up to 80% of all grapes. Romeiko is high in alcohol, earthy and comes with a oxidised, brownish color as if already old. It was used for home consumption and matured for four years in great barrels.
Romeiko Grapes are left to dry in the Sun
Before being put into the Wine Press
More exciting is Liatiko, a grape that is ready for harvest already during July. One of the first to ripen. Liatiko is used for both dry and sweet reds. About ¼ of Crete’s wine producing areas carry Liatiko. The wine has an attractive body but looks pale. For this reason it is often blended with other varieties like Mandilaria, another Cretan variety. Liatiko wine has a sophisticated maturity, it is earthy with nice aromas. Some people put it between a well aged Burgundy and a Barolo.
A ripe Liatiko Grape
Am now getting to Kotsifali which already has a fan community around the world. Like Vidiano, Kotsifali is an indigenous grape from Crete. It is fairly pale, high in alcohol, light, soft and tastes of forest berries, fresh herbs and forest floors. It reminds many of seasoned Italian wines. Kotsifali is often blended with Mandilaria to give it more color and body. More recently, it is also blended with Syrah to appeal to international consumers. Last but not least I want to mention Mandilaria, a grape that probably reached Crete from the mainland. It is deeply colored and has full bodied with lots of tannin. It is the ideal blend for the paler Kotsifali and Liatiko.
One of the more modern Blends: Kotsifali and Syrah - Conquering international Markets
Today, a new, young generation of wine makers is in charge. They thoroughly changed Crete's wine production and gave it a necessary make-over. Old varieties are re-discovered and re-planted, new blends are experimented with and the long neglected export markets developed. I cannot wait for our second week of sailing to discover these wines I have never heard of in the past. When in Heraklion, we have to find time for a ½ day wine tour.
The Variety of Wines from Crete is truly amazing
There is an entertaining video clip from the tourist office on Cretan wines - one gets thirsty just by watching: https://youtu.be/Motdaw5Ji6M?si=ElTCUCaCsYdIuP2_
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