I - 120 : Italian Architecture in the Dodecanese

Porto Lago (today Lakki), the Italian Naval Base, was built entirely in Art Deco Style

Arriving by ferry in Kos, Kalimnos, Leros, Nisiros or any other Dodecanese islands is a very Greek experience. The waters are turquois, there are many Greek flags, the homes look Greek, tavernas line the small ports and sun umbrellas dot the beaches. They look like any Greek island in the Aegean - were it not for the occasional modernist building. Some of them are pleasing to the eye. Some monstrosities. Some in good shape. Others badly maintained. How did they get there? When the Dodecanese was an Italian colony.

The Italian - Turkish War 1911 - 1912 in Lybia and the Aegean

After initial success in the Italo-Turkish War in 1911, the Italian soldiers were pinned down on Libya’s beaches, unable to break out from their bridge heads. To overcome the Turkish-Bedouin opponents, Italy had to cut the enemy’s supply line and close the Dardanelles. It was the same tactic that Venice used in 1648 during the siege of Candia (Heraklion). In the centuries since though, the Ottoman had fortified the Straits. We visited their impressive forts in 2022 on our way back from Gallipolli. The Italian Navy could not break through and went for the Dodecanese instead. The Turkish supply ships had to pass these island after Crete had become an independent state in 1898.

In a secret treaty, England and France conceded the SW (green) of Anatolia to Italy ib 1915

First, the Italian occupation was opportunistic. The Italian High Command enlisted the help of local Greeks with promises of independence. But when italy joined the 1st World War in 1915, its appetite for empire was wetted. In secret negotiations France and England conceded not only a large slice of Dalmatia, but also the entire south-western of Anatolia. Italy wanted the areas of ancient Caria and Lidia as colonies. Now it had to stay in the Dodecanese to live its imperialistic dream.

Rhodes was substantially rebuilt by the Italian Governor Mario Lago - the Ancient Site was excavated and a Modern Italian Town built north of Medieval Rhodes within the Walls

The new policy became clear when the liberal diplomat Mario Lago was appointed as governor to the Dodecanese. He aimed to modernise these islands and bring light and space to the dark and narrow Ottoman settlements. In his vision, Greek, Turks, Italians and Jews should live and coexiste peacefully in his new towns. He commissioned many famous Italian architects and brought them over to "his" Dodecanese. They reshaped these islands. Their Art Deco style was prominent enriched with "loans" from Italy's glorious past.

Cesare Maria de Vecchi with Italian Officials and Officers

Lago's successor (1936 – 1940), Cesare Maria de Vecchi, was a different man though. He had no time for peaceful coexistence. As a blackshirt, the former governor of Somalia was a hardcore fascist and Mussolini follower. He made the use of the Italian language in daily life mandatory and put severe restrictions on the Jewish community. By his time, most big building projects were completed. Preparations for war now dominated public spending. It is not clear when his governorship ended. Some sources claim 1940, others 1943 when the Italian government surrendered to the US and Britain. 

Governor's Palace built in 1927 by Florestano di Fausto - imitates the Venetian Doge Palace - is now housing the Dodecanese Prefecture

Palazzo del Governo in 1928 before the Embankment was built (today's Parking)

Rather than describing the Italian architecture, I want to show as many photos as possible on the subject. They are mostly from Rhodes where the Italian government developed the port area and neighbourhood north of the medieval town walls. Others are from Kos where an earthquake in 1933 destroyed parts of the town and Leros where the Regia Marina (Italian Navy) built a modern fleet base … albeit without a military airport (sic!) 

The Teatro Puccini with 1'200 seats - built by Armando Bernabiti in 1937 - became the National Theatre located directly behind the Governor's Palace

Once the Bance d'Italia - now the Bank of Greece (part of the Euro System)

The Casa del Fascio - the House of the Fascist - is today Rhodes' Townhall. Built in 1939

The Italian built Nea Agora (New Market) is now the Backdrop of Rhodes' Yacht Harbour

Commercial Vessels unloading Fresh Produce to the Mercato Nuovo (Nea Agora)

The recently restored Kallitea Bath were built for Italian Tourists in 1929 by Pietro Lombardi

Rhodes' Aquarium-Museum was originally the "Instituto Reale di Recherche Biologicche di Rodi" and opened in 1937

The Space where the Fascist Italian Government once hald Mass Demonstrations is now a peaceful Park. There is now a Bar in the Elli Building (photo is from 1940)

Same Place today - the Stag, a Symbol for Rhodes, was moved to the Ancient Port

The "Grande Albergo delle Rose" opened in 1927, It was built by Florestano di Fausto and is still in Business as a glamerous Luxury Hotel

The former Palazzo di Giustizia built in 1924 by Florestano di Fausto serves since 1947 as the main Greek Court on the Island

The Foro Italico with the New Market (Nea Agora), the Banca d'Italia (Bank of Greece) and the Palazzo di Giustizia (Court House) was once Rhodes' Main Street - now Platia Eleftherias

Today, Cruise Boats lure Visitors on the Platia Eleftherias to one-day Cruises

A stone-throw away we find the Church of the Annunciation Theotokos built in 1925 by Florestano di Fausto as Replica of the old Church of Saint John. It was converted from Latin to Orthodox Church in 1948.

The Cathedral of Saint Francis of Assisi, built between 1936 - 1939 by the Italian Architect Armando Bernabiti, remained a Catholic Church and is still in use today

A little bit outside Rhodes, on the foot of Mount Profitis Ilias, lies the abandoned Village of Campochiaro (now Eleousa). Completed in 1935, it was built for timber merchants from the Fiemme Valley in northern Italy. The Italians left after the end of the 2nd World War in 1945.

Campochiaro just after its completion in 1935 - watch the Video on the Link provided

There are more photos from Rhodes I could add. I selected some photos from the islands of Kos and Leros where there are many heritage buildings from Italian colonial time.

The Albergo Gelsomino was designed and built by the Italian Architect Rodolfo Petracco as a guest house for Italian officials.

These days. it is an exclusive 5 Star Boutique Hotel just 1 min away from the Beach

From the Hotel, it is just 5 Minutes to the Italian Administrative Building which is now the Town Hall of Kos and also houses the Island's Court

The Building is next to the Fortress of the Knights of Saint John (Maltese Knights)

The Egli Building in the Center of Kos was built after the devastating Earth Quake in 1933 - it still houses a Theatre, the Archeological Museum and the Municipal Market

Not all Italian Buildings are well maintained as this

Italian Officers' Villa in Lakki (Ponte Lago) shows

To Support the Naval Base in Leros, the Regia Marina

(Italian Navy) built an entirely new town - Porto Lago,

(Lakki). The Architects were Rodolfo Petracco and

Armando Bernabiti whom we met already

The Greek Town of Lakki today

The Clock Tower of the Covered Market was Porto Lago's

Landmark - the Town was built between 1923 and 1937

The modernist Church of Saint Nicholas was another

Landmark Building of Porto Lago (Lakki)

Plan of the Teatro Lero's Rotonda in Porto Lago - built by Armando Bernabiti

The Theater is now a Cinema - it was recently refurbished and shines in the old Splendor

Loved doing this blog - now have to adjust our summer itinerary to visit all these sites!