The Greek Island of Kastellorizo viewed from Kaş at about 2 kilometers of Distance
We are on the way to Kaş, the Turkish town opposite Kastellorizo. Sadly, one of our crew members has to attend a conference and needs to leave. On our way, a good hour after lifting anchor, we passed Cape Ulu Burun, where fishermen found the 3’400-year-old wreck which shed much light on early trading networks. We have no written records but the goods shipped on the wreck speak volumes. Now that scientists are able to determine their origin by isotopic analysis, we get a glimpse into ancient trading pattern.
The Cape of Ulu Burun where the 3'400 Year old Ship was found
Just before getting to Kaş, we pass the island of Kastellorizo, Greece’s most eastern outpost. The island is popular today with European tourists and prosperous again. But times were tough before they arrived in the late 1980s. Disputed and isolated, Katellorizo was depending for several decades on support from mainland Greece. It was not the most desirable place to live.
Kastellorizo, Ro and Strongyli are Greece's most eastern Islands
For centuries, the island was a bit an afterthought though. During the crusades, it gained some prominence. Like in Olympus or Selinus crusader knights built a castle to protect the passage of soldiers, horses and weapons to the Holy Land. Changing hand often, the island eventually became Spanish. Most of the old castle is still intact and can be visited. After the Ottoman took control in 1512, Kaş and Kastellorizo became quiet places. For 400 years not much happened. The population on both sides was mainly Greek. The Ottoman did not interfere with their religion and internal affairs. Kastellorizo and mainland Kaş were small but self-sustained communities. You only need to look at photos from the 19th century to see how busy Kastellorizo’s deep water port was where all the ships arrived.
The Castle of Kastellorizo was built by the Knights of Saint John from Rhodes and Bodrum
But peaceful times would not last. In 1912, the islanders asked Italy to occupy them during the Italo – Turkish war. Italy had already conquered the Dodecanese with Rhodes. People living in Kastellorizo hoped for a better future. Italy however thought it was not worth the effort. The request though poisoned Kastellorizo’s relationship with the Ottoman authorities who became suspicious of the Greek population.
Demography of Anatolia around 1900 - A real Mix of Ethnicities
Fast forward to World War I. In November 1914 the Ottoman Sultan ditched the country’s neutrality and joined the war on the side of Germany and Austria. Six months later, by April 1915, the French Navy shelled Kastellorizo and Kaş with the intention to interrupt supply lines for the Turkish Armies in Iraq and Palestine. In November 1915, the French occupied the island. The town of Kaş followed soon thereafter. The area became a logistics and intelligence hub for France. They also feared that German submarines would use Kaş as a base. Germany had sent 10 – 15 U-Boats to the Mediterranean which did extensive damage to Allied shipping. They sank almost 1’000 ships with 3.5 million tons. By 1917, the Ottoman Army installed heavy artillery on the coast, sank one British and two French war ships and forced France to pull out of Kaş.
An Ottoman 10.5 cm Howitzer Gun Made in Germany - here in Palestine 1917
In the Peace Treaty of Sevres, Italy was granted Kastellorizo and a large sphere of influence in Anatolia. The Allies made good on the promises which brought Italy into World War I.
In 1921, large Parts of Türkiye were occupied by France, Italy and England
Resistance on the Turkish Mainland was immediate though. In 1921 Italy had to pull its troop out from Antalya. A year later, Ataturk defeated the Greece Armies near Ankara – the big population exchange followed. Every Greek person in Anatolia was evicted. Could not find out where the Greeks from Kaş were sent to. The islander of Kastellorizo lost their relatives. Trade dropped sharply but was not dead yet. Italy and Turkey established normal diplomatic relations in 1922. The commercial buzz was gone though.
The busy Port of Kastellorizo before World War I - It was the main Harbour for Kaş
Under Mussolini, the dream of an Imperial Italy was revived. The Italian Dictator wanted the Mediterranean to become his “Mare Nostrum”. In 1942 he was quite close to his dream. By 1944 though Kastellorizo was lost to English Special Forces. Three years later they handed the island over to Greece under the condition that it was not militarized – a promise that Greece quickly broke. Commerce between island and mainland broke down. Without substantial subsidies from Greece, the population on Kastellorizo could not have survived. Whenever tensions between Greece and Türkiye reach boiling point – as they did in 1974 during the Cyprus crisis – Kastellorizo becomes a hot spot. It is only 2 km from the mainland and not defensible.
Mussolini's Dream of a Fascist Empire - His Spazio Vitale
(had he won the war - luckily he did not)
Modern tourism mitigated many of these tensions. Russian and English tourists visit both sides during their stay here. Greek and Italian imperial dreams though wrecked the lives of many people here. Was it worth it? Definitely not. Can there be a better future? Yes. It requires cooperation instead of confrontation. Hope people in Athens and Ankara are - one day - reading this piece.
Kastellorizo's main Town with Old Harbor, Castle (to the left) and Kaş at the Back
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