We started our Day with Buying 5 Seabreams from local Fishermen returning from the Sea
Last night we made it to Anemurium, an ancient Greek town abandoned in the 7th century during the Arab raids. West of it lies Anamur, a modern, Turkish town with a few ugly sky scrapers. Unfortunately, Anamur has no port. Despite considerable swell coming from south west, we had to stay on open water protected only by the cliffs of the nearby Cape. Until midnight, our bet worked. But then the wind turned north west and the sea turned choppy. We had to get out of bed to reposition the boat – and then again. Eventually we found a spot where wind and swell aligned. And got some sleep.
Anemurium from the Dragonfly with the Aqueduct and the Bath Houses in the Center
Today, we wanted to visit Anemurium again. We had been here six years ago on our way to Jaffa. Sadly, when lowering the dinghy into the water, we were told that the site was closed for “further archeological research”. Not that we had seen anybody digging. But there were the two policemen watching our every move. Maybe the archeology department run out of money? Under the current hyperinflation this could well be.
The remaining Stump of Anemurium's Pier which once must have been very busy
Anemurium’ s old pier, its Odeon, the bath houses and the theatre are particularly impressive even though no money was spent on preservation. With its aqueducts, the acropolis, the still standing town walls and the large necropolis it would make a spectacular tourist attraction.
Anemurium's Odeon is remarkably intact and beautiful - its Theatre faired far worse
East of Alanya – our destination for Saturday - there are no international tourists though. The international airport of Antalya is too far away and the mountainous terrain does not allow the construction of long runways. There are the occasional Turkish holiday makers who come by car and stay in small hotels. But leisure boats like our Dragonfly do not venture beyond Alanya. It seems Alanya is an invisible border line. East of it, the coast is thinly populated. People are mainly living from the ubiquitous banana plants which grow on terraces once built for olive trees. Growing banana must be a lucrative.
Alanya around 1905 - it was a small town with few people - most still living in the old Fort
The low population density between Mersin and Alanya reminds me of a very different time 2’000 years ago when the Straits of Cyprus were the gateway from Egypt to Rome. Sea currents and prevailing winds do not allow straight sailing. Sail boats have to follow the coast of the Levant and Anatolia before crossing the Aegean to reach the Peloponnese and then Italy.
Rome maintained extensive Trade Relationships with all major Asian Empires
In one of my earlier blogs I estimated Rome’s Asian trade to be worth 5 billion Sesterces or 25% of the Empire’s GDP. Add to this number the 400’000 tons of grain imported from Egypt and goods imported from Africa and the number will increase to 35%. A whopping 1/3 of Rome’s GDP thus passed through the Straits of Cyprus. No wonder that there were so many harbors and towns along the coast offering accommodation and shelter. If they charged a fraction as port fees and tolls, they would become rich. Very rich. This coast must have been a busy and bustling place.
Greek Fire was one of Byzantium's Main Weapons inthe 300 Year-long Wars with the Arabs
All this changed dramatically with the collapse of Rome in 476 AD followed by the Arab raids after 640 AD. No boats arrived any longer. No money could be earned. People had to abandon their towns. Over the following centuries they were destroyed by war or earth quakes. For 600 years, from the 7th to the 13th century, the area was Byzantium’s border province with the Muslim world. The borders shifted continuously back and forth. Not a place you want to live in. When peace finally arrived with the Ottomans, the area became a back water. The old business never returned. Trade from Asia to Europe had shifted to the route via Africa – the new traders were the Portuguese, the Dutch and eventually the British. Anatolia’s south coast stayed frozen in a beauty sleep until tourism woke it up in the 1970s.
Antiochia Ad Cragum was a Seleucid Foundation - very well fortified for a Hellenistic Town
Not being able to visit Anemurium, we decided to head west and stop for a short break half way for a swim and lunch. Then we continue to sail west towards Selinus, where once Emperor Trajan died. He passed away on his way home from campaigning in Mesopotamia and died of unknown causes. Some people believe he was poisoned in order to install Hadrian as his successor. A small mausoleum was built and still stands there. We visit it tomorrow.
Little Antiochia guarded the Entrance to two small Ports ideal for hiding Pirate Boats
A good two hours before reaching Selenius (Gazipasa), we visit Antiochia ad Cragum, or Little Antiochia, a small city founded by the Seleucids in 170 BC. Looking at its fortress like shape, I wondered whether it was built to control the Cilician pirates. Benefitting from the endless wars between the Seleucids and Ptolemy, these pirates dominated the coast from Anamur to Side where they were hiding their fast, little boats. It took Roman intervention under Gnaeus Pompey in 66 BC to clean up the mess.
Old Alanya at the End of the 19th Century - Photo taken from the Seljuk Fort
The thinly populated hills and the abandoned ancient towns remind me of how fragile our societies are. No business = no jobs = no salaries = no people. The people living here 2’000 years ago were victims of gigantic shifts in geopolitics outside their control. It was not their fault. But the statement “no business – no people” is something we should think about. Our modern societies have become more and more business unfriendly. Something which will have consequences – and not the one we like.
At 6.30 pm we arrived at Selinus - the old Crusader Fort is visible on top of the Hill
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