Sunrise a good two Hours east of Bodrum at 6.30 am in the Morning
It is our last full day of sailing. We are heading towards Bodrum where we will return the Dragonfly tomorrow morning. The closeness of Bodrum is noticeable – there are large numbers of Turkish Goulets. Was here last time in 2017. There were far fewer Goulets. Seems their business is thriving. Due to the strong breeze today, most cluster in the same few bays. It feels like a family gathering. Everybody wants to be away from the swell. Twice, we tried to escape but the invisible hand of the Goulet collective gets the “herd” back together. Seems the wisdom of crowd finds the swell free spots – always.
Could not find any Data on the No of Goulets - their No must have quadrupled since 1978
The sharp increase in the number of Goulets since 2017 reminded me of Bodrum in the seventies. I came here first time in 1978. The town was much smaller. It had just a dozen hotels. Maybe around 20’000 residents. The main streets were lined with mom and pop shops, the road to Mugla was narrow and dangerous – mainly due to the crazy driving of young Turkish men. Most restaurant were on the circular harbor esplanade. There also were a few loud bars but no night clubs. The main adventure after dark was illegally crossing over to Kos after customs had closed to party until dawn before customs opened again next morning. Kos had many fancy clubs but also large numbers of British Lager-louts.
Bodrum Marketing today focusses on its great Monuments and History
Bodrum changed beyond belief since 1978. The number of residents increased tenfold. The town expects 1.5 million visitors for 2024. But actual numbers will be lower, maybe 1.3 mio. Turkish hyper-inflation wrecked the savings of uncounted Turkish families who had to cancel their summer vacation. The number of domestic visitors dropped by 30% already.
Seasonal Population - There is a Peak of 600'000 Visitors in Summer = 3 x local Residents
The 11% increase in foreign visitors will not compensate for the loss. Türkiye also became expensive for foreigners. Many businesses try to pass on inflation on bills charged in USD or EUR. This is disingenuous – at best. As inflation rises, the Turkish Lira depraciates. Inflation can not be passed on. Many tourists noticed. We saw rows of empty deck chairs and half-full restaurants in Antalya. Also, the ports are filled with unrented sail boats.
Official Inflation climbed to 85% this Summer - Inofficial Rate is 150% - Turks flee to the USD
From my home country I know that developing tourism can be a double edged sword. In times of crises, tourists stay away and thousands lose their jobs – as we’ve seen during Covid. The hospitality industry was badly affected. Economic development has to be diversified to be sustainable. With Bodrum’s dependence on tourism, the town suffered.
On Paper, the Development of Bodrum is Green and Sustainable - Reality is a bit different
Development in tourism also has to be gentle. The “everything goes” philosophy destroys the beauty of a place. Once gone, it is impossible to repair. When you compare Zermatt and Davos, you instantly know what I refer to. In Zermatt you feel like being in a mountain village on a winter holiday. In Davos like living in a suburb of Zurich on a cold day. Guess where people want to spend their time?
The Urban Sprawl in Bodrum is noticeable - Trafffic Jams are now the Norm
With too many Goulets in sheltered bays, I believe that Bodrum reached a natural limit beyond which hospitality should not be developed further. Saint Tropez, the place Bodrum tries to rival, is a desired place because access is restricted – by the simple tool of a very small parking lot. Since Bodrum wants to become Saint Tropez on the Turkish Riviera, it better studies how Saint Tropez managed to stay attractive over so many decades.
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