A long sailing day today. A good hour into the journey we passed Livorno. It is a modern harbour today that handles most of Tuscany’s imports and exports. Huge container ships move in and out and it is also the departing point for the ferries to Elba and Corsica. It was not always like this. As long as Pisa was a dominating sea power, Livorno played no role. The main harbour was further north, in Porto Pisa. It was destroyed and filled in by Genoa after their victory over Pisa in 1284. Livorno, a Pisan possession, was eventually sold and became 1421 part of the Republic of Florence. The Medici finally got the port they were always looking for. In 1577 they built a modern harbor protected by a pentagonal fortress - Livorno started to grow. In the 15th century, it counted only 423 families, today it has about 160’000 inhabitants.
We had three sails up but never made more than 6 kn - the wind was a bit erratic today
Many container ships wait outside the commercial harbour of Livorno for their turn
Focaccia for breakfast on the way to Elba - the crew brought it on board before we left
On the same level of latitude as Livorno are the shoals of Meloria with a lighthouse that dates back to Pisan times. The current tower however was built by Florence in the 18th century. In the fateful year of 1284, the fleets of Pisa and Genoa clashed here for a decisive battle. Around 100 - 120 galleys participated on both sides. In typical medieval fashion they tried to ram and board each other. The Genovese waited behind Meloria in two battle lines whilst the Pisans attacked in one single line. The battle went back and forth but eventually Genoa's second line outflanked the Pisan fleet and roll it up. The defeat was a disaster from which Pisa never recovered. In one swoop they lost 40 galleys, had 5’000 of their men killed and 10’000 captured. With no hinterland, Pisa could not replace these catastrophic losses. The city whose maritime empire rivaled Venice’s, built the famous leaning tower and gave us algebra was reduced to small Italian town which it still is today.
The Lighthouse of Meloria about 2 miles away to the west
A good six hours later we arrived at 3.30 pm in Portoferraio. The port was fortified by the Medici to protect it against attacks from Barbarossa and Turgut, the two infamous corsairs and Ottoman Admirals. The history of the beautiful island of Elba was modest until it was chosen to be Napoleon’s exile in 1814. He did not stay here for long. After nine months the island was too small for him and he lusted again for battlefield glory and the reconquest of Europe. The battle of Waterloo in 1815 ended these dreams and Napoleon was sent into exile again, this time to windy and cold St Helena in the middle of the Atlantic from where it was impossible to escape. Napoleon could have retired in luxury. He screwed it up.
The harbour of Portoferraio serves only sailboats and motor yachts today
View from Forte Falcone towards Forte Stella - in the middle one of Napoleon's palaces (the building. in yellow)
View from Forte Falcone on the old harbour where our tender brought us
The old town is full of flowers - very nice place to live - almost no traffic
And there is a beach between the two forts which only the locals know - it was full at 5 pm