Yesterday, we aimed for Girolata, the bay on the west coast, where in 1540 the Genovese fleet captured Turgut Reis, after he had sacked and raided Gozo (Malta), Pantellaria and the coasts of Sardinia and Sicily and enslaved many of its people. Turgut thought that Andrea Doria would not find him in the secluded Bay of Girolata. But the Genovese Fleet did and Turgut spent the next few years rowing galleys. He was not so brave when facing overwhelming force. Four years later, his boss Barbarossa showed up before Genoa with 220 galleys. He had supported the King Francis I in the conquest of Nice during the summer campaign and now “negotiated” the release of Turgut for the small sum of 3’500 Gold Ducats. These pirates were not so poor as they always said! To make sure the Turks could never ever use the Bay of Girolata again, the Genovese built a small fort which still stands and is renovated as I write.
The small Fort of Girolate protecting one of the few bay on the west coast providing shelter against the westerly winds
Sailing into the Bay of Girloata
Before reaching Girolata, we stopped in the natural resort of Scandola where the shore is a blend of granites and lava. The granites are part of the African plate which got so stretched that lava could penetrate it and form a volcano. The exhausted volcano lies now under water just to the west of Corsica. The huge stress lifted the strata into an almost vertical position. Spectacular cliffs and ravines are the result. It is the most beautiful landscape. Swimming here was most delightful.
The beautiful rocks of Scandola - the cliffs drop steeply into the sea
The little inlet is guarded by a Saracen Tower and loved by sailors for a swim
The sharp cliffs require careful navigation - some spikes come out of nowhere from deep under water
We finally set sail again at 6 pm when we got our biggest surprise for the day. Two dolphins accompanied us to our final destination for almost 10 minutes. They did bow surfing and enjoyed themselves very much. The ships underwater waves allow the dolphins to move with minimal own effort. We could see this when we gathered at the front of the AFAET. The dolphins hardly moved their flippers! Since they were no further away than two meters, we also noticed that they were watching us as we watched them. They have beautiful big eyes. Incredible that they recognise human beings. Wonder whether they welcomed Turgut Reis the same way or whether they thought that such a dreadful human being does not deserve such a welcome.
Surprise of the day - two dolphins followed us for ten minutes
They loved the surfing and played with the waves
These photos do not fully capture the beauty of the encounter - if anybody wants a 4 min video please let us know
We are now on the way to Ajaccio but will stay overnight in one of the quiet bays overnight. Ajaccio is for tomorrow!