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B + 10 : User Guide for a Roman Port - the Kelenderis Mosaic

Updated: Apr 12, 2021

It is going be an easier day today. We aim for the Kelendris or Ayrdrincik in Turkish. Found in 1992 and now excavated since, the famous Kelenderis Mosaic shows the ancient Roman harbour, how it was organised and where you could find what you needed to continue your journey. It was probably laid at the entrance hall of the official Roman Port Office. Kelenderis was at the time - according to history book s - one of the biggest harbours on the Cilician coast and very well defended - have to admit this is not really visible today. Knidos, Myra, Side, Alanya or Selinus seem to have much better defences. Be it as it may, we wanted to see the mosaic which - of course - you can not visit.

Our delicious Turkish breakfast - served every morning at 07.00 am

On the way to Kelenderis - our Turkish Chef had a little break after our breakfast

Captain Miharc taking the Carpe Diem V in "unchartered territory" - the sail boat never went further east than Alanya

Our deck hands fished every day - unfortunately we never caught any fish

After a few hours we made it into the modern harbour of Kelederis - built as an extension to the antique port - the Carpe Diem V barely fit - we had only 1 meter of water under the keel

The mosaic could of course not be visited - but the harbour master - to the right of Captain Miharc was intrigued by the international visitors with their impressive academic titles. He was once a driver at the French Embassy in Ankara and thus spoke a little French

As luck has it, the Sub-Prefect was in town. A formal meeting was arranged, courtesies exchanged, a photo taken for the local press and a toast given to Turkish hospitality and we were introduced to the young professor who lead the excavation team and wrote his PhD on the mosaic

The Turkish Professor gave us an exclusive tour to "his mosaic" - it was so interesting

And there it was before our own eyes - o beautiful. A Roman ship with Lateen sails entering the harbour. The shops and the public offices are depicted as they were built. Only two thirds of the mosaic are excavated at this point in time. The landowner next door, under who's lawn the mosaic continues, has refused giving permission for digging - so far!


What a wonderful event - far away from Venetian trade routes - but we were indeed at the heart of the Roman grain trade from Egypt to Italy. In the first century AD, Saint Paul sailed this way to Rome where he had to appear before court.




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This blog is about getting to places which are today off the beaten track but where once the world met. It talks about people, culture, food, sailing, architecture and many other things which are mostly forgotten today.

 

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